Tuesday 8 May 2012

Techniques and Processes Liz Collection

'Surreal' Hat

'Surreal Hat'  The starting point for this little hat,came first from the technique. We had been trying out different materials and techniques for spring/summer hats.One of the techniques was using straw braid. Starting on a poupee I started spiralling and pining the braid in concentric circles. When I was happy with the size of the cap I tacked stitched the the whole thing together. Hwn it was secured I then went back and stitvhed it firmly together. I did this by hand, but it could be easily be done on a mchine. In fact next time I would do it by machine.  i found that the cap started to 'peak' in the centre, making it look a little like one of Madonnas boobie outfits from the 90s! The next step was to put the cap back on a block and give it steam to flatten down the peak. Trim wise I felt it needed a little sparkle, especially considering who my inspiration was. I found these lovely blush coloured beads and followed the natural circles of the hat. When I got to the centre I wanted to give the hat a surreal touch. I had seen this picture of Elizabeth in a very cute but surreal hat and thought this the perfect inspiration






I used very fine copper wire and beads to create the stem for the flower, and I continued the beading up the stem and onto the orchid. I also added some further decoration in the form of wired twisted bead circles.
To finish I felt the hat needed something a little more to give it a surreal feel. I had looked at work by other designers who used surreal influences and found that many used animals and insects as inspiration. I found these little ladybirds in the perfect colour.

One of the best examples of designers using surreal elements in there work was Elsa Schiaparelli

Elsa Schiaparelli

Elsa Schiaparelli Lobster Dress

Elsa Schiaparelli

'Violet Eyes' Cocktail Hat

'Violet Eyes' Hat- My starting point for this hat was the colour of Elizabeth's eyes. It was always said that Liz had very unusual violet eyes, although it is also said that they were really a dark blue and were enhanced by make up. I don't really care! 
Using a feather pad I had made in college, I wanted to add some extra details to the hat. I made little silk violet flowers, with beaded centres and added these to the front edge of the hat. I also lined the inside of the hat with a rich purple silk and finished the other side with a vintage brooch.

I imagined Liz wearing this little hat at a cocktail hour soiree, maybe with a nifty little couture number and killer heels!


'English Rose Garden'


English Rose Garden Hat -When I thought about Liz Taylor in terms of colours, one of the strongest images was of her wearing yellow, all shades. especially sunflower yellow. I don't know where this image came from initally, maybe it was buried somewhere in my memory. When I came to research Liz I found that this was a colour she wore many times. She was even married in it.
I also wanted to include some silk flowers somewher in the collection. I knew Liz had a life long love of all things English and in particular English rose gardens. I also knew that she had quite a collection of roses in her garden in Hollywood. I did remenber that her last husband Larry Fortensky also dug it up, foolishly, doing some 'home inprovements'
I used a second hand yellow straw hat that I had and upcycled it. I trimmed it with feathers, veiling and made lots of silk roses in various shades of pale yellows, creams and brown. 



Honeymoon Hat

The Honeymoon Hat This hat was inspired by the idea of Liz jetting off on one of her many honeymoons. I felt she would wear something glamorous and chic. I imagined her stepping off a private jet looking amazing. I made the brim on a hat block using the same technique with straw braid as I used with the surreal hat. I pinned and stitched the brim firat, I then made a buckram crown. I wanted to incorporate a turban somewhere in the collection as Liz wore turbans often. I draped black ribbon to create the feeling of a turban crown and stitched this to the crown. I then attached the ribbon inside the crown to that could be tied around the neck. This would stop the hat blowing away on breezy runways. I added eight little rings to the side of the ribbon, one for each of her marriages. I made my own lining with a splashy abstract pattern, using the artwork I had been studying from that time. The straw braid came from a old hat I had. I unravelled the original hat and then used the braid for the brim
Lining

Bridal Crown
I had the idea of a bridal crown for Liz because of the many weddings and because she could be considered a queen in Hollywood. I had been looking at the work of Christian Dior and had noted a technique that he used. the technique in very basic terms was to use very fine wire, shaped into curlicues, that were then applied to the underside of a fabric. It could then be manipulated to create volume and movement. I made the crown from 'dior' net, or paris net as it now more commonly called. I created the shape over a block I then stiffened and wired it. I then applied my own curlicues of fine silver wire to the front of the crown. I wanted the piece to be see through, so you could see the workings and dior net. I then applied lace, piece by piece iver the wire. I then finished the trimming with tiny glass beads to add shimmer. The whole thing is held together on the head with white satin ribbon at the back


National Velvet Hat The final hat in my collection came about from an technique we were taught at college. We have recently been making cabachon roses. First a base is made in buckram and then a folding technique is applied with ribbon or fabric. I used a very pale green velvet ribbon and played around with the folding, not making a tradtional rose. I then hand stitched and lined the cap. I wanted to trim the hat with something fun, I had played with the idea of tiny toy horse and rider, but could'nt find the right figures. I then came across this little wooden 'star' motif and thought this would be perfect. National Velvet was the first starring role for Elizabeth and I thought it very appropriate. I felt it needed a little sparkle and texture, so I added aurora crystals to the motif. I also added some of these crystals to the folds on the hat.

National Velvet Hat

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