Research Black Hat Project

In our first week we were given a brief for a short two week project. We were given a plain black wool felt hood, and asked to create a hat or head piece quickly. The idea was to play and experiment with the felt. An unassuming black felt. Where could we take it, what could we do to make it work in interesting ways. Most times with felt hoods, I would look at a hat block that I fancied and block in the usual way. This time I was asked to think beyond the block!
I decide to cut the felt into pieces and reconstruct in a way that it dictated. When cutting felt into shapes it can look a bit rough and handmade, so after experimenting with a few shapes I found that a square looked the most finished and pleasing shape.I then played around with the placing of the squares, to create a small head piece.

 I also wanted to add some more textures and materials in to it. I tried cutting into the felt, but found it did'nt work with the square shape and hardly made any difference to the overall design. My tutor suggested a textile foil, like a book binders foil that can be applied with glue and heat to create a shiny finish. I used a black foil, to highlight the squares, rather than using maybe gold or silver foil

 I also wanted to add more elements. I tried a stretch lace to cover one of the squares, but this created to much bulk. I then finished with some lovely little brass safety pins. This created another design element and moves the eyes around the design with little highlights of colour.

When I had the design I wanted I then steamed it and pinned to my dolly to create a fitted curve

After it had dried I added a hand made wire head band. This was a technique we have been practising in college. They are great for head pieces and large hats. They give you the freedom to create any shape you need, and also add extra elements for pins and elastic.

I have included a picture of me wearing it, as I think it looks like a toupee on the mannequin!!

My goodness I look very stern! It was very early in the morning, though!.
I think it's a nice idea, and I will probably go back to the technique. It does need some fine tuning though. I would like it sit closer to the head. I did'nt apply any stiffener to the felt, just steam so it's actually not that bad. I think next time I would apply stiffener and see if that helps. I think it's a lovely idea to use felt in different way and the possibilities are pretty endless.

During the making of this hat we had our induction on the laser cutter. I can see why they are used so much. Very interesting finishes and designs can be achieved. Very fine detailed work can be made without the hours of painstaking cutting and engraving. I think it would be a great tool for creating shapes to make headpieces like the above. You could get really lovely straight edges and cuts on the shapes, eliminating that 'home made' look when cutting felt by hand.
Mmmm interesting. Already I can see lots of applications for it's use in millinery.

We have also been experimenting with wire work in millinery. The idea of making your own head fittings and foundation shapes for your work.
I made a regular two bar head band first, then covered it with brown nylon tulle. The coarseness of the cheap tulle was perfect for the headband as it dissapeared easily into the hair. You could dye the tulle to match peoples hair color, so it has many uses.

I also made a head band in black wire for the black headpiece above. I made a two bar one, but this time I added in two loops for putting hair clips through. perfect for heavier head pieces. I made the head band out of one long piece of wire and made the loops out of the same piece as I went along. I made my band shorter on the head this time. More the size of a tiara, so it does'nt sit behind the ears. I will add elastic to the ends to hold it secure around the head. This is ideal for people who have trouble wearing full head bands, because of the tension it can create in the wearers head. I am definately going to need some of these for my final collection, so I will need to prcatice and play to see what other variations I can come up with.

The is one of the ways to make a simple head band.
Take the head measurement , over the top of the head. Measure from behind the ears across to the other ear. Double that amount in wire, leaving an extra 10cms for overlap and fixing. Place on and bend over a dolly head, marking where the ends are on the dolly with pins.
Keep the overlap in the centre of one bars, bind with wax cotton, Tie a knot first then wind and bind, finishing with a blob of glue if needed.
The join can be covered with a label or comb to conceal.
For bridal wear it can be covered with tulle bias strip. If the hat is to be worn at one side it needs to be counterweightd at the other side. This can be done with the addition of extra loops, for pinning into the hair. Wire can be tinted with acrylic inks, not acrylic paint.

Z bands of wire can be added as a brace between the two bars to create strength, or can be used to create a fretwork design that is decorative and on show.

Wires can also be used when wiring small cocktail hats and bibis. When edging the rim incorporate small wire loops, these can be used to pin into the hair. Eliminating the need for elastic or combs.
The wires can also be used to anchor the hat to the head. Christian Dior used this techniques, curling the wire in to tight curlicues and then moulding into the hair.

In class we also experimented with wire shapes and frames to create hats around. Again I think this may be something i need perfect before my final collection.
This was my first attempt, very clumpy and rough, but I can definately see the potential and possibilities. Very exciting, but definately more practice!

[Theatre costume] Stylised horse's head shaped from lines of thin cane covered in silver metal foil, the cheeks and back of the head of alternating straps of leather and short lengths of the cane, the upper part of the eyes of leather.The horse's head attached to a headpiece of padded bands which run to each side of the wearer's face and around the face and chin.
[Theatre costume] Stylised horse's hoof for the left foot, the base a closed horseshoe shape from which rise metal rods, one to front, one to back and three to each side, supporting an angled metal plate in the shape of a foot, sloping to front, the rear rod bending backwards to support the heel. To each side of the plate a wide attached brown leather panel to create a 'sandal' for the wearer, the inner edges punched with holes for a lace (missing). Attached to the panels by metal studs a buckled leather strap, designed to fit round the back of the wearer's foot.
[Theatre costume] Stylised horse's hoof for the right foot, the base a closed horseshoe shape from which rise metal rods, one to front, one to back and three to each side, supporting an angled metal plate in the shape of a foot, sloping to front, the rear rod bending backwards to support the heel. To each side of the plate a wide attached brown leather panel to create a 'sandal' for the wearer, the inner edges punched with holes for a lace (missing). Attached to the panels by metal studs a buckled strap of newer leather, designed to fit round the back of the wearer's foot.
Source V&A